BEER REVIEW: BRASSERIE DE LA SENNE – BRUXELLENSIS – BRUSSELS, BELGIUM
MY INITIAL ENCOUNTER WITH BRUXELLENSIS
During my visit to Dunsmuir, California in March 2023, I had the pleasure of trying three beers from the renowned Brasserie de la Senne at The Wheelhouse (read my Place Review here). One of the standout brews that captivated my taste buds was undoubtedly their exceptional Bruxellensis Brett Pale Ale.
Santé!
Gordon A. Ponce
CEO – Beer Review Journal
BREWERY HISTORY
The paths of Yvan De Baets and Bernard Leboucq coincided in Brussels in May 2002, precisely at the Zinneke parade. It was during this particular occasion that Bernard, known then as an amateur brewer, first unveiled his now widely renowned creation, Zinnebir. Fueled by their meeting, the pair then set out on a journey into the realm of professional brewing towards the conclusion of 2003.
In Sint-Pieters-Leeuw, they transformed the former Moriau brewery warehouse into “Sint-Pieter Brouwerij,” a microbrewery. As their success flourished, the limited space became a hindrance, urging them to fulfill their desire of establishing a presence in Brussels. They chose the name Brasserie de la Senne, inspired by the river flowing through the city. Nevertheless, it took them five years to eventually relocate to the Sint-Jean Molenbeek area in the capital. During this period, they rented various breweries from their friends to continue brewing their own beers. These challenging years led to a significant achievement on December 22, 2010, when they successfully brewed their first beer entirely in Brussels.
With a mission to revive the authentic taste of bitter beers in Belgium, Brasserie de la Senne established itself in Molenbeek. Going against the notion that great beer must be high in alcohol, they strongly believed that flavor could be achieved without excessive potency. Although they offer a selection of robust brews, Zinnebir and Taras Boulba, with their moderate alcoholic content, continue to be the top favorites among beer enthusiasts. Complementing their commitment to flavor, the brewery’s in-house cultivation of unique yeast strains adds an extra dimension, greatly valued by their dedicated clientele.
THE NEWEST BREWERY – “TOUR & TAXIS”
In addition to their original establishment in Molenbeek, which started operating in December 2010, Brasserie de la Senne responded to the growing demand for their beers by opening a second cutting-edge venue in Brussels called “Tour & Taxis” in 2020. While the Molenbeek location primarily concentrates on brewing their unique barrel-aged beers, the primary goal of the new venue is to produce their popular flagship offerings.
THE LABELS
Apart from their outstanding taste, Brasserie de la Senne’s beers stand out in the market with their captivating use of lively, art deco labels. Among the countless beers lining the shelves, they effortlessly grab attention. Jean Goovaerts, the talented artist behind these labels, has made an unforgettable impression on Brasserie de la Senne. The iconic Brasserie de la Senne sunrise logo, along with his daring, vibrant, and unconventional designs, play a crucial role in defining the brewery’s identity, its rise to prominence, and its success abroad.
REVIEW NOTES
ALCOHOL BY VOLUME: 6.5%
COLOR: The liquid displays a captivating caramel hue with a subtle variation of golden tones along the edge. The foam, scarcely off-white, forms with a dense, rocky appearance reminiscent of a cotton ball. Despite being poured gently into a tulip-shaped glass, it still manages to generate a three-finger-high head. As one indulges in this beer, the remnants on the glass sides resemble a patchy lacework, evoking the image of a spider web. Delicate streams of bubbles gracefully ascend from the glass’s base.
AROMA: Right off the bat, you’ll experience a warm welcome of funky Brettanomyces hints, accompanied by subtle malt undertones. Rest assured, the brett aromas truly steal the show in this one. And to top it all off, there’s a delightful harmony infused by the presence of fresh hops.
FLAVOR: Upon the first few sips, a delightful touch of hop bitterness greets your taste buds, swiftly followed by a well-known funky tartness originating from the Brettanomyces yeast. The biscuity malt undertones expertly harmonize with the initial flavor profile, ensuring a balanced palate.
FINISH / AFTERTASTE: The finish carries a lasting hint of Brettanomyces, leaving a pleasant aftertaste. With a balanced level of dryness, the refreshing nature of this beer encourages you to indulge in another sip.
FOOD PAIRINGS
CHEESES: Varieties of cheeses that fall under the categories of washed rind, blue veined, and soft ripened are highly recommended. Some notable examples include Taleggio, Epoisses de Bourgogne, Cambozola, Gorgonzola, Stilton, Brie, Camembert, and Port Salut.
APPETIZERS: When it comes to appetizers, you can’t go wrong with a thoughtfully arranged charcuterie platter featuring an assortment of various salt-cured meats. For seafood lovers, tantalizing options like bacon-wrapped shrimp or scallops, succulent oysters on the half shell, elegant salmon mousse served on endive leaves, and delectable crab cakes are sure to please.
ENTRÉES: When it comes to entrees, there are a plethora of culinary options to consider. Some popular choices include pizza, sushi, pork tenderloin, smoked salmon, and a diverse range of pasta dishes featuring either a creamy white sauce or a flavorful pesto base. And let’s not overlook the timeless classic, Moules-Frites!
IMPRESSION
It’s quite rare these days to come across a Belgian Pale Ale that has been fermented with Brettanomyces, making Bruxellensis truly one-of-a-kind. Its moderate alcohol content adds to its refreshing and easy-drinking nature, making it an excellent choice for a session beer. With Brasserie de la Senne’s well-known reputation for crafting top-notch beverages, I had no doubt that Bruxellensis would live up to my expectations. I’m eager to acquire more bottles of this beer and set some aside to observe how the flavors and aromas evolve over time. If any of you have had the opportunity to sample aged Bruxellensis, I would love to hear your thoughts! Yet another triumph from Brasserie de la Senne.