BEER REVIEW: BRASSERIE DE LA SENNE – JAMBE DE BOIS – BRUSSELS, BELGIUM
MY INITIAL ENCOUNTER WITH JAMBE DE BOIS
When I traveled to Dunsmuir, California in March 2023, I was fortunate enough to sample three varieties of beer from the esteemed Brasserie de la Senne at The Wheelhouse (you can find my detailed Place Review here). As a dedicated aficionado of the Belgian Tripel genre, I simply couldn’t pass up the opportunity to indulge in de la Senne’s Hoppy Tripel called Jambe de Bois for the first time.
Santé!
Gordon A. Ponce
CEO – Beer Review Journal
BREWERY HISTORY
In May 2002, Yvan De Baets and Bernard Leboucq found themselves crossing paths in Brussels, where fate brought them together at the Zinneke parade. It was during this event that Bernard, who was just an amateur brewer at the time, proudly introduced his masterpiece, Zinnebir, which has since gained widespread recognition. Inspired by their encounter, the duo embarked on a journey into the world of professional brewing, which began towards the end of 2003.
The former Moriau brewery warehouse in Sint-Pieters-Leeuw underwent a remarkable transformation, becoming the microbrewery known as “Sint-Pieter Brouwerij.” With their success gaining momentum, the limited space soon proved to be a hindrance, fueling their desire to establish a presence in Brussels. To pay homage to the river that gracefully flows through the city, they aptly named their new venture Brasserie de la Senne. However, it took them a span of five years to finally make the move to the Sint-Jean Molenbeek area, located in the heart of the Belgian capital. Throughout this challenging period, they rented different breweries from their friends, ensuring the continuous production of their unique beers. It was on December 22, 2010, that they celebrated a significant milestone, successfully brewing their very first beer entirely within the city of Brussels.
In an endeavor to restore the true essence of bitter beers in Belgium, Brasserie de la Senne set up shop in Molenbeek. Defying the conventional belief that exceptional beer must be heavily alcoholic, they firmly held the belief that flavor could be attained without excessive potency. While they do offer a range of robust brews, Zinnebir and Taras Boulba, with their modest alcohol content, continue to reign as the top choices among beer enthusiasts. In addition to their unwavering commitment to taste, the brewery’s cultivation of unique yeast strains in-house brings an added dimension that is highly prized by their devoted clientele.
THE NEWEST BREWERY – “TOUR & TAXIS”
Brasserie de la Senne, after successfully establishing their original brewery in Molenbeek back in December 2010, decided to cater to the increasing demand for their beers by launching a state-of-the-art facility in Brussels named “Tour & Taxis” in 2020. While the Molenbeek site primarily focuses on crafting their distinct barrel-aged beers, the main objective of the new venue is to manufacture their highly sought-after flagship brews.
THE LABELS
In addition to their incredible flavor, Brasserie de la Senne’s beers make a distinct impression in the market with their eye-catching art deco labels. Amidst the sea of beers on the shelves, they effortlessly command attention. The artist Jean Goovaerts, who is responsible for these labels, has left an indelible mark on Brasserie de la Senne. The brewery’s identity, ascent to fame, and international success owe a great deal to the iconic Brasserie de la Senne sunrise logo and Goovaerts’ bold, vibrant, and unconventional designs.
REVIEW NOTES
ALCOHOL BY VOLUME: 8%
COLOR: A mesmerizing shade of medium gold greets the eye when one beholds the liquid, accentuated by delicate hints of light golden hues along the edges. The foam, a rarity of off-white, gathers robustly with a rocky texture akin to a cotton ball. Even when poured gently into a tulip-shaped glass, it defies expectations by forming a voluminous head that stretches three fingers high. As you savor this beer, the traces left on the sides of the glass bear resemblance to a patchwork lace, reminiscent of an elegant spider web. Graceful streams of bubbles elegantly ascend from the base of the glass.
AROMA: From the very beginning, you will be greeted by the timeless fragrances of a Belgian Tripel, complemented by the subtle hints of Pilsner malt in the background. Additionally, you will notice delicate fruity nuances, including a touch of honey and the presence of stone fruits like apricot. Of course, the aromatic harmony is completed by the inclusion of hoppy notes, culminating in the familiar Belgian yeast aroma that is reminiscent of freshly baked bread.
FLAVOR: After following my customary three-step method of tasting (the first sip to capture the overall flavors, the second sip to aerate like wine sommeliers, and the third sip held on the tongue for a few seconds), I observed that the fragrances seamlessly transition into the taste, presenting a harmonious blend of malt sweetness, hop bitterness, and the distinctive spiciness and peppery notes from the yeast.
FINISH / AFTERTASTE: With its medium body, Jambe de Bois is surprisingly easy to drink, even with its slightly higher alcohol content. The lingering hop bitterness and notes of peppery phenolics contribute to a refreshingly pleasant aftertaste.
FOOD PAIRINGS
CHEESES: If you have access to Belgian cheese varieties, the combination would be unmatched. Some recommendations from me would be Passendale, Postel, Vieux Chimay, Fromage de Herve, or Bouquet des Moines.
APPETIZERS: A well-curated charcuterie platter showcasing a diverse selection of salt-cured meats is an excellent choice for appetizers. Seafood enthusiasts can relish in the delights of grilled shrimp or scallops on skewers, or indulge in endive leaves stuffed with blue cheese.
ENTRÉES: When it comes to main courses, there are numerous culinary choices available. During my visit to The Wheelhouse in Dunsmuir, I had the opportunity to savor green lipped mussels gently simmered in a rich 3 Fonteinen Oude Geuze sauce, accompanied by crispy sourdough bread on the side for dipping into the exquisite mussel and beer broth. For a classic twist, you could opt for the traditional Belgian frites instead of sourdough bread. Additionally, you shouldn’t miss out on other iconic dishes like Waterzooi, Carbonnades flamandes/stoverij (which benefits from the beer’s acidity cutting through the richness), or Croquettes aux crevettes grises/garnalen krokketten.
DESSERTS: For those who have a taste for culinary exploration, complement your culinary journey with Jambe de Bois alongside a delectable slice of New York cheesecake. Additionally, any dessert with a zesty lemon base would create a harmonious pairing.
IMPRESSION
In today’s beer scene, it’s a rarity to encounter a hop-forward Belgian Tripel that deviates from the traditional Trappist flavors. Despite boasting a moderately high alcohol content of 8%, the Brasserie de la Senne beers are renowned for their refreshing and effortlessly drinkable nature. From the moment I took my first sip, I immediately classified Jambe de Bois as a genuine degustation beer. The meticulously crafted flavors of this Tripel have amassed a devoted following, catapulting it to become one of the brewery’s top-selling offerings, particularly in the local Brussels market. I firmly believe that this beer possesses remarkable aging potential, with its complexity intensifying over a span of 5 years. Without a doubt, the beers from Brasserie de la Senne have secured a place among my all-time favorites.