A BELGIAN BEER PARADISE IN SISKIYOU COUNTY: THE WHEELHOUSE – DUNSMUIR, CALIFORNIA

A BELGIAN BEER PARADISE IN SISKIYOU COUNTY:
THE WHEELHOUSE – DUNSMUIR, CALIFORNIA

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Back in March 2023, I received an unexpected surprise from my friend Paul in the form of several pictures showcasing Cantillon Classic Gueuze. Knowing Paul’s usual preference for Tripels, I was taken aback by his sudden interest in this particular beer. Curiosity piqued, I inquired about the origin of these photos, and Paul revealed that they were taken at The Wheelhouse, a remarkable café nestled in Dunsmuir, California. According to Paul, this establishment boasted an exceptional collection of Belgian beers.

It goes without saying that I was eager to gather more information about The Wheelhouse. I decided to pay a visit to their website, where I discovered their specialization in a wide selection of Belgian beers, including 3 Fonteinen and Cantillon Lambics (Gueuzes). Intrigued by their offerings, I reached out to one of the owners, Jon Dally, on Friday, March 10th. My intention was to propose featuring The Wheelhouse in an upcoming PLACE REVIEW for Beer Review Journal. Jon Dally kindly responded, expressing his enthusiasm for the idea. He messaged me with these words: “We would love to be featured on your website. However, it’s worth noting that the recent heavy snowfall over the past three weeks has significantly depleted our stock of beers. Our last three deliveries were unfortunately canceled! Ha! Nevertheless, we invite you to join us for a delightful dining and drinking experience, where we can engage in lively conversations on all things beer.”

The following day, my wife and I embarked on a journey to Dunsmuir, intending to spend the night there. Upon our arrival at The Wheelhouse, Jon warmly greeted me without delay. In no time, he introduced me to his business partner, Hanna Smith, and their resident beer expert, William Maley. Stepping foot into their “Beer Temple,” as I like to call it, I was taken aback by the impressive array of Belgian beers they had in their inventory. I had anticipated a smaller selection, so I couldn’t help but think, “If he considers this to be modest, I can only imagine what their fully stocked cooler looks like!

THE RICH HISTORICAL TALES OF DUNSMUIR, CALIFORNIA

Dally informed me that this structure was constructed in the late 1800s when I inquired about its age. The evident antiquity of the building was apparent from its architectural style. However, that is merely the inception of the story. The vicinity of Siskiyou County, with its dense forests adorned with pine trees, has existed for centuries. Situated just south of Mt. Shasta, Dunsmuir has become a favored destination for nature enthusiasts. This area witnessed significant mining operations during the Gold Rush era. The establishment of the Central Pacific Railroad through the Siskiyou Trail in 1888 played a crucial role in the formation of Dunsmuir. Coincidentally, in the same year, Alexander Dunsmuir, the second son of renowned British Columbian coal tycoon Robert Dunsmuir, paid a visit to this region. Historical records suggest that he was captivated by the area’s beauty and offered to donate a fountain to the budding town if they would rename it after him.

During the early 1900s, Dunsmuir emerged as one of the largest cities located north of Sacramento, boasting a thriving tourism industry. Their motto proudly proclaimed it as the “Home to the Best Water on Earth,” as the town received pure spring water from the glaciers of Mt. Shasta through lava tubes, supplying every tap in the city. The construction of the Pacific Highway in 1910 resulted in a significant surge in tourism. The 1920s, known as the roaring twenties, witnessed Dunsmuir experiencing a boom. Numerous notable figures, including Clark Gable, Babe Ruth, and many others, flocked here in great numbers, arriving by train. In 1926, the California Theatre on Dunsmuir Avenue was unveiled, serving as a grand movie palace that showcased vaudeville performances and silent films before transitioning to “talking” movies in the 1930s. However, the 1950s brought a change to the local workforce as the steam-powered locomotives in the railroad industry were replaced by diesel engines, leading to a reduction in employment opportunities. The early 1960s witnessed an economic resurgence with the construction of Interstate 5, running parallel to this picturesque mountain town. Today, downtown Dunsmuir continues to exude the charm of the early 20th century and has been officially recognized as a Historical District on the National Register of Historical Places. As you drive down Sacramento Avenue, you will find The Wheelhouse situated directly across from the Amtrak station. Moreover, the town commemorates its rich heritage each year with the Dunsmuir Railroad Days festival, paying homage to the industry that played a pivotal role in the town’s development. The buildings lining Sacramento Avenue serve as steadfast reminders of a bygone era, still standing for all to enjoy and admire.

UNCOVERING THE HISTORY OF THE BUILDING

Quoted text from building owner Peter Arth Jr., Sourced by Dunsmuir Mayor, Juliana Lucchesi

“According to the Dunsmuir Centennial book (1886-1986), the “Brown Trout” building, which stands today, predates the devastating fire of 1903 that destroyed most of the wooden structures on the 5800 block of Sacramento Ave (then known as Front Street). In response to Dunsmuir’s growing significance as a railway hub, all the buildings were swiftly reconstructed using brick and cement. The main area of the Wheelhouse had its flooring installed in late 1903, and remarkably, it continues to serve its purpose to this day.

Initially, the Brown Trout consisted of a pair of buildings. Throughout its history, the southern portion underwent various transformations, serving as Eherenman’s Groceries and Hardware, Finney’s Fix It Shop, as well as hosting multiple eateries and retail establishments. On the other hand, the northern half was occupied by McCarvell’s Shoe Department, Levi’s Department Store, and provided office space for several contracting firms. In 2012, when I acquired the property, it was being utilized as a coffee shop called The Brown Trout, a gift shop, and a micro-enterprise specializing in the sale of miniature trees (Tree in a Box), as an alternative to traditional greeting cards.

As you may be aware, the building possesses a distinctive attribute – a creek cascading beneath its foundations. With careful consideration, we chose to create a modest opening in the flooring, enabling uninterrupted observation of the perpetual current. This exceptional vantage point offers a glimpse of juvenile trout making their way upstream from the Sacramento River, particularly during the summer season.”

UNVEILING THE ORIGINS OF THE WHEELHOUSE

Starting in April 2012 and continuing until late January 2016, the Dogwood diner, a beloved establishment, was located in the northern section of the building. Despite receiving considerable praise and positive reviews, their commitment to an all-organic business model was ultimately not sustainable from a financial standpoint. However, four dedicated employees of the diner were determined to carry on the legacy of the business. Their plan was to maintain the high-quality cuisine made from locally sourced organic ingredients, but with a new twist – pairing the dishes with exceptional world-class beers, particularly focusing on offering a selection of top-notch Belgian brews.

“Many years ago, during my time at Monk’s Café in Philadelphia, Lambic and Gueuze captivated my heart,” reveals Dally. “Here in Siskiyou county, we are thrilled to have a wide selection of exceptional beers available,” he adds. Dally’s partnership with co-owner Hanna Smith originated during their involvement in organic farming in the Fall River Mills area in California. “By incorporating our passion for everything organic, we took great care in crafting the revamped menu for The Wheelhouse,” explains Dally, shedding light on their approach as co-owners.

With Dunsmuir attracting outdoor enthusiasts from around the world, Jon and Hannah aspired to establish a welcoming place with a captivating atmosphere. They envisioned The Wheelhouse to have an outdoor beer garden that would resonate with patrons, whether local or from far-off places. The front facade of The Wheelhouse exudes a delightful old-world European charm.

Inside, you immediately get a sense of the good vibe of the place. With lots of artistic whimsy (and beer paraphernalia decorations) you truly get a feel of stepping inside one of the cafés found in Belgium, but with California style and flair.

In addition to enjoying beer with your meal, The Wheelhouse also provides the option to take beers home. I availed this opportunity and brought several home with me, particularly Belgian specialties that are rarely found in my local area.

AND SO, THE HOUR OF DINING BEGAN…

Upon our arrival at 5:00 PM, my spouse and I were cordially welcomed by William Maley, an adept in the realm of beer. Despite having developed his passion for beer for a relatively brief period of less than five years, William possesses an impressive wealth of information, particularly concerning Belgian Beers, with a specific emphasis on Lambic and Gueuze varieties. Engaging in delightful conversation with him truly enhanced our dining and drinking experience.

For our appetizer, my wife and I made the delightful decision to indulge in some crispy fried mushrooms. These delectable treats were coated in a delicate breading, devoid of any excessive greasiness, and perfectly seasoned.

As for the main course, my wife simply couldn’t resist their renowned South Philly style cheesesteak sandwich. With every bite, she was transported back to the streets of Philadelphia, claiming it to be the finest cheesesteak she had tasted since her last visit.

On the other hand, I opted for the mussels prepared in a flavorful 3 Fonteinen Gueuze sauce. Without a doubt, these mussels earned the title of being the most exquisite I have ever had the pleasure of savoring.

To complement her meal, my wife chose to savor a glass of Proverb Merlot and Proverb Pinot Noir. As for me, I eagerly anticipated the chance to indulge in an assortment of Belgian beers, some of which were new to me while others were a delightful rediscovery.

Our experience was absolutely amazing! Every aspect of it was outstanding! Situated just opposite the nearby railroad tracks that run parallel to the Amtrak station, we were thrilled to witness no fewer than 6 trains passing by while we enjoyed our meal. It was a dream come true for someone who has always been fascinated by trains since childhood. Without a doubt, we will definitely be visiting this place multiple times throughout the year.

If you’re someone who appreciates exquisite beer, especially the ones from Belgium, then a trip to The Wheelhouse is an absolute necessity when exploring Northern California! Situated at 5841 Sacramento Ave, Dunsmuir, CA 96025, this establishment promises to deliver an exceptional experience. And if by chance you encounter Jon, Hanna, or William during your visit, be sure to mention that Beer Review Journal recommended you pay them a visit. Trust me, you won’t regret it.

I extend my immense gratitude to Peter Arth Jr. for generously sharing the historical background of the building, and I would also like to thank Dunsmuir mayor Juliana Lucchesi for facilitating our connection with Mr. Arth.

Santé!
Gordon A. Ponce
CEO – Beer Review Journal

5841 Sacramento Ave.
Dunsmuir, CA 96025