A BELGIAN BEER PARADISE IN SISKIYOU COUNTY:
THE WHEELHOUSE – DUNSMUIR, CALIFORNIA
In early March 2023, my friend Paul texted me some photos of Cantillon Classic Gueuze. I was a bit shocked, because I did not expect photos of this beer coming from him. The extent of his foray into Belgian beers were Tripels. I asked him where the photos were from, and he told me they were from this very cool café he and his wife were visiting at the time he texted me, was called The Wheelhouse in Dunsmuir, California. Paul told me that their selection of Belgian beers was outstanding.
Needless to say, I had to find out more about The Wheelhouse. I visited their website, and discovered that their specialties are 3 Fonteinen and Cantillon Lambics (Gueuzes), among many other beers from Belgium. On Friday March 10th, I contacted one of the owners (Jon Dally) to inquire if I could feature The Wheelhouse in an upcoming PLACE REVIEW on Beer Review Journal. He was very gracious, and welcomed the idea! He messaged me saying, “We would love to be featured on your website, but the past 3 weeks of snow have left us pretty depleted on beer stock. We’ve had 3 deliveries cancelled in the last 3 weeks! Ha! So please, come and eat and drink and we can all talk of all things beer.”
My wife and I drove up to Dunsmuir the next afternoon, and planned to make an overnight stay of it all. When I first arrived to The Wheelhouse, Jon welcomed me right away. He quickly introduced me to his business partner Hanna Smith, and their resident beer expert William Maley. As I walked into (what I refer to as) their “Beer Temple” I was extremely surprised to see the amount of Belgian beers they actually had in stock! I was expecting to see a lot less- I immediately thought, “If he is considering this to be low, I can only imagine what it looks like when he has a fully stocked cooler!”
DUNSMUIR, CALIFORNIA: FULL OF RICH HISTORY
“This building was built in the late 1800’s” Dally replied, when I asked him how old the place was. It was obvious by the architecture of the brick building that it was pretty old. But that’s only the beginning. The Siskiyou County area and its surrounding areas of dense forests lined with pine trees, has been around for centuries. Located just south of Mt. Shasta, Dunsmuir is a popular destination for outdoor enthusiasts. During the Gold Rush era, lots of mining activity was happening. In 1888, the completion of the Central Pacific Railroad through the Siskiyou Trail actually led to the creation of Dunsmuir. Also that same year, Alexander Dunsmuir second son of British Columbian coal magnate Robert Dunsmuir, was visiting the area. Historical accounts state that he was so enamored with the beauty of the area, that he offered to donate a fountain to the new town, if they would rename the town in his honor.
In the early 1900’s, Dunsmuir was one of the largest cities north of Sacramento, and enjoyed a robust tourism industry. It’s motto: “Home to the Best Water on Earth”. Pure spring water from Mt. Shasta glaciers is delivered to the city via lava tubes and then piped to every tap in town. The construction of the Pacific Highway in 1910, increased tourism dramatically. In the roaring 20’s, Dunsmuir was booming. Many celebrities like Clark Gable, Babe Ruth, and many others travelled here by the trainload. Opened in 1926, the California Theatre on Dunsmuir Avenue was a movie palace first featuring vaudeville shows and silent movies, with “talking” films by the 1930’s. In the 1950’s, the railroad industry transitioned from steam to diesel locomotives, resulting in the reduction of the local workforce in the industry. The economic rebound happened in the early 60’s when Interstate 5 was built, running parallel to the charming small mountain town. Today, downtown Dunsmuir retains much of its early 20th century charm, and is designated as a Historical District on the National Register of Historical Places. Driving down Sacramento Avenue where The Wheelhouse sits is directly across from the Amtrak station. There is an annual Dunsmuir Railroad Days festival that pays homage to the industry that was so monumental in the development of the town. The buildings along Sacramento Avenue remind you of a bygone era; still standing, to be enjoyed and revered.
THE WHEELHOUSE – BUILDING HISTORY
Quoted text from building owner Peter Arth Jr. Sourced by Dunsmuir Mayor, Juliana Lucchesi
“My source is the Dunsmuir Centennial book (1886-1986). What is now the “Brown Trout” building existed before the 1903 fire that pretty much leveled all the wooden buildings on the 5800 block of Sacramento Ave (then called Front Street), and because Dunsmuir was becoming an important rail center, all the buildings were promptly rebuilt- this time with brick and cement. The flooring in the main area of the Wheelhouse was laid in late 1903, and is still doing the job.
Originally, the Brown Trout was two buildings. Over the years, the southern half has been Eherenman’s Groceries and Hardware, Finney’s Fix It Shop, and several restaurant and retail operations. The northern half was McCarvell’s Shoe Department, Levi’s Department Store, and offices for several contractors. When I purchased the building(s) in 2012, they were being used as a coffee shop (The Brown Trout), gift shop, and micro business selling small seedling trees (Tree in a Box) as a replacement for greeting cards.
Of course, as you know, one of the unique features of the building is the creek that runs beneath it. We removed a small area of the historic flooring to allow viewing of the non-stop stream flow, including juvenile trout that journey up from the Sacramento River during the summer months.”
THE CREATION OF THE WHEELHOUSE
From April 2012 through late January 2016, the northern part of the building also housed the much beloved Dogwood diner. Although it received much fanfare and great reviews, its all-organic business model unfortunately was not financially viable in the long run. Four of the diner’s employees wanted to continue the business footprint that the diner established. The focus was to keep offering top notch cuisine made with locally sourced organic ingredients, but this time, pairing dishes with world class beers- with a focus on offering world class Belgian beers.
“I fell in love with Lambic and Gueuze many many years ago at Monk’s Café in Philadelphia, Dally states. “We are super stoked to be carrying so many special beers here in Siskiyou county. Dally met his business partner (and co-owner) Hanna Smith while they were involved in organic farming in the Fall River Mills area in California. “We just took our love of all things organic, and we implemented that approach while designing our updated menu for The Wheelhouse”, co-owner Dally further elaborates.
Since Dunsmuir enjoys outdoor enthusiasts visiting the area from all over the globe, Jon and Hannah wanted to create an establishment that had a great vibe, featuring an outdoor beer garden that would seem familiar to travelling patrons, near and far. The front of The Wheelhouse has a charming, old world European feel to it.
Inside, you immediately get a sense of the good vibe of the place. With lots of artistic whimsy (and beer paraphernalia decorations) you truly get a feel of stepping inside one of the cafés found in Belgium, but with California style and flair.
The Wheelhouse also offers beers to go, if you are not content on just enjoying beer with your meal! I took several home, as they offer Belgian specialties that are not commonly found in my neck of the woods.
THEN CAME MEALTIME…
When my wife and I returned to have dinner and drinks at 5:00 PM that evening, we were warmly greeted by Resident Beer Expert, William Maley. For being a beer enthusiast for less than 5 years, William has quite a bit of knowledge about beer, specifically Belgian Beers with his focus on Lambic and Gueuze. We had a great time chatting with him.
My wife and I chose fried mushrooms as our appetizer. They were lightly breaded, not greasy, with the right amount of seasoning. My wife opted for their famous South Philly style cheesesteak sandwich. She said it was the best cheesesteak sandwich she has had since she had one in Philadelphia. I chose mussels cooked in 3 Fonteinen Gueuze. Best mussels I have ever had, hands down.
My wife paired her meal with a glass of Proverb Merlot and Proverb Pinot Noir. For me, I could not wait to enjoy Belgian beers that I tried for the first time or were a revisit.
We had a fantastic time! Everything was spectacular! Being situated right across the street from the local railroad tracks that run adjacent to the Amtrak station, no less than 6 trains drove by during our meal. Childhood infatuation with trains met. We will be returning multiple times this year for sure.
If you’re a fan of great beer (specifically Belgian beer) The Wheelhouse is a must visit when travelling through Northern California! They are located at 5841 Sacramento Ave, Dunsmuir, CA 96025. When you visit, if you see Jon, Hanna, or William, tell them that Beer Review Journal sent you! You’ll be glad you did.
Huge thanks go out to Peter Arth Jr. for the providing us with the building history, and to Dunsmuir mayor Juliana Lucchesi for connecting us with Mr. Arth!
Santé!
Gordon A. Ponce
CEO – Beer Review Journal
5841 Sacramento Ave.
Dunsmuir, CA 96025
SOCIAL LINKS FOR THE WHEELHOUSE
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